Why I Keep Going Back to San Miguel de Allende

There are places you visit once and check off the list.

And then there are places that stay with you.

For me, San Miguel de Allende is one of those places.

I've been twice now—once in October 2024 for Día de los Muertos and again in March 2025—and I'm already thinking about going back.

I suppose that says something.

Maybe it's the energy. The color. The food. The art. The rooftops. The music spilling into the streets. The celebrations that seem to turn the entire city into one big gathering.

Or maybe there's simply something about San Miguel that's hard to explain.

Whatever it is, I fell for it.

The First Time: Día de los Muertos

My first trip to San Miguel was in October 2024. I was there for Día de los Muertos, and I met up with my good friends Karen and Danny, who were already there.

I stayed at Selina, which was in a great location and made it easy to walk into Centro and start exploring.

That's exactly what I did.

From the beginning, I loved the energy of the city. It was vibrant, colorful and full of life. There was art everywhere, beautiful architecture, incredible food, music in the streets and people simply enjoying being together.

One of the things I loved most was that I could wander.

Some evenings, I would walk around Centro on my own after dinner. I felt comfortable and safe, and there always seemed to be something happening. Live music. Mariachi bands. A young girl singing with the most angelic voice. People gathering, talking, laughing and enjoying the evening.

San Miguel felt alive.

And then there was Día de los Muertos.

Seeing Día de los Muertos Through New Eyes

I'll be honest.

The first time I experienced the cemetery during Día de los Muertos, I felt a little strange.

Almost like we didn't belong there.

I wasn't sure if it was disrespectful for us to be there as visitors, witnessing something so personal.

But the longer I watched, the more I understood the beauty of what I was seeing.

This wasn't simply a time of mourning.

It was a celebration.

Families gathered around the graves of people they loved. There were flowers, photographs, food, favorite treats and beverages. People talked, laughed, listened to music and spent time together.

The cemeteries were filled with people.

A sea of people.

And instead of feeling dark or sad in the way I had expected, there was an incredible sense of love and remembrance.

It changed my perspective.

I loved seeing how Mexican culture honors those who have passed—not by pretending death doesn't exist, but by remembering the people who are gone and keeping their memories alive.

I was deeply moved by it.

And then there was the parade.

I'm not sure I've ever seen anything quite like it.

The streets were packed. There was music everywhere, and the costumes were incredible. Some were dressed in black, while others were covered in vibrant colors, elaborate makeup and creative interpretations of Catrinas and other traditional imagery.

It was beautiful.

It was a little wild.

And it was completely San Miguel.

Of course, I couldn't experience Día de los Muertos without participating a little myself. Karen and I had our faces painted, which was honestly just plain fun.

Art, Laughter and a Little Whimsy

Another highlight from that first trip was visiting the Chapel of Jimmy Ray Gallery with Karen and Danny.

They had been before and wanted me to experience it.

I'm so glad they did.

The grounds were filled with whimsical, colorful and completely unexpected art. Some pieces were beautiful and playful. Some were a little...well...risqué.

There was a lot of laughing that day.

We also met the husband behind the gallery and heard the story of how the dream of the gallery continued after his spouse passed away.

There was something really special about that.

It wasn't just looking at art. It was hearing the story behind a place created from love, creativity and a shared dream.

And that seemed to fit San Miguel perfectly.

Art isn't something tucked away in a museum here.

It feels like part of the city's personality.

Rooftops, Dinner and an Unexpected Surprise

And then there was the food.

San Miguel quickly convinced me that I could happily eat my way through the city.

One evening, we had dinner at Quince, and it became one of those experiences I would absolutely recommend to someone visiting San Miguel. The rooftop setting was beautiful, the food was wonderful, and there was even an incredible tightrope performance during dinner.

It's one of those places where dinner becomes an experience.

And then, as if San Miguel hadn't already given us enough to remember, we were walking back to the hotel after dinner when we were suddenly surprised by a spectacular fireworks show over the cathedral.

We had no idea it was coming.

And then—boom.

Fireworks lighting up the sky over one of the most beautiful buildings in the city.

It was AMAZING.

Those are the moments I remember most from traveling.

Not always the things you plan.

Sometimes it's the unexpected moments that become the memories you carry home.

And Then I Went Back

Apparently, one trip wasn't enough.

I returned to San Miguel in March 2025, this time with two girlfriends, Laura and Elsie.

It was their first time, and I already knew they were going to love it.

We stayed at Live Aqua, a beautiful property with gorgeous design and a great location—close enough to Centro to easily explore, but just removed enough to have a little breathing room.

We checked in, explored the hotel and then headed out into the city.

And once again, San Miguel pulled us in.

We wandered through a park where local artists had set up to sell their work. Once again, there was that feeling of creativity everywhere you looked.

This trip was different.

I wasn't seeing the city for the first time anymore. I was introducing friends to a place I already loved, while discovering new pieces of it myself.

We had dinner at Quince again. We spent an evening at Rosewood, enjoying dinner and drinks on the rooftop.

And the view?

Spectacular.

There was also a morning that felt especially memorable because we were invited into a private home for breakfast by a woman Laura knew.

Her home was beautiful—it looked like something straight out of an interior design magazine.

But what made it special wasn't just the house.

It was the feeling of being welcomed into someone's personal space and having her graciously share a little piece of her life with us.

Those are the experiences that make travel feel different.

You aren't just visiting a destination.

You're connecting with people.

Another Celebration I Didn't Expect

And then San Miguel surprised me again.

We happened upon another incredible celebration—the Lord of the Conquest.

At first, I didn't really know what the celebration was about.

But once again, I found myself standing in the middle of something that was deeply rooted in culture, faith, tradition and community.

There were dancers, music, elaborate clothing and people gathered together throughout the city.

And once again, I was moved.

I think that's something I've come to appreciate about San Miguel.

You don't necessarily have to understand everything immediately to appreciate what you're witnessing.

Sometimes you simply stand back and watch.

You listen.

You take it in.

And then you realize you're witnessing something that has meaning far beyond what you can see on the surface.

Even the Everyday Moments Were Memorable

And then there was the very practical side of travel.

I got my teeth cleaned.

It was a great experience.

Clean. Efficient. And a whole lot less expensive than what we pay in the United States.

It was just another reminder that travel doesn't always have to be about checking off the biggest attractions.

Sometimes it's about experiencing a place in a way that feels more like everyday life.

So Why Do I Keep Going Back?

That's the question.

What is it about San Miguel de Allende that keeps calling me back?

I think it's the energy.

The liveliness.

The food.

The art.

The rooftops.

The music.

The people.

The celebrations.

The way you can turn a corner and discover something you weren't expecting.

For me, San Miguel feels like a very different side of Mexico than the resort destinations I had experienced before. It feels cultural, artistic, historic and deeply connected to its traditions.

And there is something very special about the way the city celebrates its traditions.

Día de los Muertos changed the way I think about remembering people we've lost.

The Lord of the Conquest celebration gave me another glimpse into the depth of San Miguel's traditions.

The art reminded me how creativity seems to live around every corner.

And the people, food, music and everyday moments made me want to stay a little longer.

I've been twice.

And I'm already thinking about going back.

Not because I've seen everything.

Quite the opposite.

There is still so much more to discover.

Maybe that's the magic of San Miguel.

Some places you visit.

Some places you fall in love with.

And some places...

keep calling you back.

Travel with Mandi

Some of the most meaningful journeys aren't measured in miles—they're measured by how they change us.